The ornamental plant is popular for its bright inflorescences. Browallia usually lives no more than a year, but in home conditions the life cycle can be extended to 2-4 years. Care of the plant is elementary, and the flower is suitable for novice gardeners.
- Species and varieties
- Brovallia Beautiful
- Brovallia Sticky
- Brovallia Large Flower
- Brovallia American
- Some popular Varieties
- Housing for Browallia
- Place in the apartment
- Watering and humidity
- Pinching and pruning
- Planning instructions
- Priming soil and drainage
- Pot selection Picking pot
- Potting schedule
- Step-planting instructions
- Sprouts stretching out
- Bottom rot
- Sunburns Root rotChlorosis
- Pod mite
- Videos on growing Browallia from seed
Members of the Solanaceae family, genus Browallia. It is a poisonous herbaceous plant. Both annual and perennial representatives are found. It is native to South America. It was introduced from Colombia at the end of the 19th century.
In the home it can be grown on a balcony, veranda or indoors. In the garden, browallia is planted as an annual flower. The plant has a medium intensity of growth.
This flower should not be eaten, nor is it used for medicinal purposes.
The height of a mature plant is about 25 cm, but with good care, some species grow to 1-1.5 m. The leaves are lanceolate in shape with a pointed tip and reach a length of 8 cm. Leaf plate to the touch rough. Veins are well visible. The shoots are bare, without pubescence.
Blooming begins in late summer and lasts through mid-fall, In indoor conditions, from March to October. The axillary tubular inflorescences are star-shaped, attached to the plant on short pedicels. They reach 4-5 cm in diameter. It consists of 5 petals. They are often painted a bright purple hue, the core is highlighted in white. They are self-pollinated. They are odorless.
For the flowering, the plant is so depleted that it simply dies. In rare cases it is possible to rehabilitate the plant by replanting, but mostly browallia grows as an annual.
Fruits mature in the fall and are a capsule-like seed box that hides about 35-40 seeds.
Browallia is a poisonous plant. Children and animals should be protected from it.
Species and varieties
There are only 6 varieties of Browallia in the genus. Only one species, Browallia beautiful, can be grown as an indoor plant. It is a compact and neat bush with a large number of inflorescences.
It looks like a petunia. A compact plant about 30 cm high. Branches well, has bare and long shoots. Leaves are solid, reaching 5-6 cm in length. It has star-shaped axillary inflorescences, each of which consists of 5 petals. Flowers are quite large, up to 5 cm in diameter. The corolla is characterized by a large palette of colors.
Small plant up to 30 cm tall. The bush easily assumes a spherical shape. The stems branch well. The branches are sticky to the touch, which is why the flower is so named. The inflorescences are solitary and small in size, may be white or blue in color, arranged often.
Brovallia Large Flower
Flowers can grow to 1.5 m. The crown is lush and occupies a large diameter. The shoots branch well. Inflorescences of 2 shades, white or light blue, are found. Flowers cover the whole plant like a bright carpet. Features a darker shade of green.
The plant has been introduced from Peru. It is an annual. The standard height is 45-50 cm. The florets are tinged blue or purple, the coloration is intense. Flowers reach 2-3 cm in diameter, are sparsely arranged. Flowering begins in mid-summer and can last until the first cold.
Несколько popular varieties
- White Troll. Named for its snow-white inflorescences. The height of the plant is about 20 cm.
- Blue Troll. Features blue colored inflorescences. Usually grows to 25-30 cm.
- Major. Has the largest flowers of all species.
- Jingle Bell. Characterized by its elongated stems. Inflorescences are colored in several shades of blue.
Care for browallia
To prolong the blooming period, You need to make the flower as comfortable as possible. The most important thing is to adjust the climate, humidity and choose a good place in the apartment.
Brovallia likes bright and diffused light. In order for the flower to bloom, you must provide it with a 12-hour day of light throughout the year. In winter the sun is not enough, additional light must be provided.
In winter the plant is placed to the south to make up for the lack of light.
The comfortable temperature during the warm season is +20-25°C. In winter the temperature regime is maintained at +15-17°C. If the dormant period is not maintained, the flower will be sick. Lowering the temperature is also necessary for future flowering and high ornamental value.
Also the air temperature is lowered to prevent the shoots from being pulled out. If the climate remains the same as in the summer, but the plant lacks sun, the browallia will start to stretch out.
Place in the apartment
When placing the plant, choose an area without drafts and temperature variations. The plant should be away from heaters. It is best to place the pot on a window with a southeast or southwest orientation. This way Browallia will get enough light and will not burn the leaves.
Pouring and moisture
Frequency of watering:
- The plant likes plenty of watering. The standard watering for Browallia is once every 7 days.
- Warm seasons may require watering every 2-3 days.
- In winter, watering intensity is reduced to once a week.
It is important to let the top layer of soil dry out between waterings, otherwise fungal lesions can develop, rotting of the root system will begin.
Brovallia does well in a moderate humidity level of about 55-60%. On hot days, spray the above-ground part of the plant additionally. Otherwise, spider mites can get established in a dry room. It is important not to touch the inflorescences, the petals darken from water getting on them.
Watering and spraying is always done with settled room temperature water.
Fertilizers are used only during the active growing season, from spring to early fall. Fertilizers are not needed in winter.
Fertilizers can be applied every 2 weeks. They should preferably include phosphorus and potassium compounds. Large concentrations of nitrogen are not desirable. Comprehensive mineral additives can be used.
Pincching and pruning
Pincching is done occasionally during the active vegetation period. This treatment makes the plant lush and compact. Pruning is done on the young apex shoots and the first buds, this encourages abundant branching.
To ensure a longer flowering period, old buds must be cut off as soon as they bloom. Otherwise, they will begin to form a seedbox and the strength of the browallia will be used to set fruit.
Trimming is also done in early spring, removing old, darkened and diseased branches and leaves.
Browallia should be planted in soil of turf and leaf soil, preferably adding perlite and humus there. The pot must allow for the outflow of excessive liquid.
Potting soil and drainage
The soil composition can be different, as long as it is nutritious, loose and neutral in acidity. The easiest option is to buy universal soil for house flowers and add sand with charcoal. Soil for senpillia is also used.
Moist soil can be made up yourself from:
- 2 parts sod soil;
- 2 parts leaf soil;
- 1 part humus;
- 1 part perlite.
The pot should have drainage holes from which excess liquid will escape. Otherwise, the plant will begin to have root rot.
Plastic pots are the most common choice, but clay pots will do. Between the walls and the root ball should be a space of 1.5-2 cm. Hanging containers can be used as the stems are quite long and can hang down the sides.
The plant dies after it has formed seed capsules. It is possible to artificially prolong the life span by transplanting after the beginning of flowering. The procedure is done once a year, in early spring.
Repotting is also necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot. If, however, the time for transplanting has come and a change of pot is not required, you can simply replace the top layer of soil with fresh soil.
Step-by-step planting instructions
Potting is done either before flowering or after. Otherwise, the browallia will lose its inflorescences.
Before the transplanting procedure, water the flower well:
- At the bottom of the pot, a drainage layer, which usually takes 1/5-1/6 of its height,
- Prepared earth mixture is placed on top.
- The flower is carefully removed from the old pot, shaking off the earth from the roots. Dried out and darkened areas are cut away.
- The plant is centred in the pot and the remaining substrate is added. The pot may then be lightly shaken or the soil may be compacted to remove voids.
- The plant is liberally watered.
Brovallia can be propagated in two ways - by seeds or by cuttings. Cuttings save time and give the best results.
- Seeds collected are left in slightly warm water for 24 hours.
- Place soil consisting of sand and peat in a planting container.
- The soil is sprayed with a sprayer.
- The seeds are planted in the container with a 2 cm burial.
- The seeds should be covered with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect. They are also aired daily and kept moist.
- When the first shoots appear, place the plants in a well-lit place and remove the film.
- Brush healthy cuttings with 2-3 leaves are removed.
- The cuttings are put in water until the root system has formed, usually about a month.
- Water is changed once every 3 days.
- When the roots have grown to 2 cm they can be planted in the ground.
It is important!
Up to 3 cuttings are planted in a pot to make the plant more lush and beautiful.
Unfortunately, Browallia is prone to some diseases. However, the risk of becoming ill appears only if not properly cared for, or in conditions unfavorable to the flower.
It looks like a white floury coating on the leaf plate. If wiped off, it will disappear but quickly reappear. When the fungal spores mature, they produce moist droplets resembling morning dew.
Before treating the flower, remove diseased branches and flowers. Then spray with fungicides.
Under room conditions against powdery mildew use:
One treatment may not be enough to get rid of the disease, do systemic spraying as directed. The room must be ventilated while spraying and gloves must be worn.
It looks like yellow dried spots on the leaves. Caused by too much sun. To recover the browallia, place it deep in the room, away from the window or in a room with an east/west orientation where there is not such an abundance of UV light.
The cause of burns may be improper spraying. The sprayer should be fine, so it will create a moist cloud around the flower. If the water droplets are large, settling on the leaves, they form lenses that will easily provoke a burn.
Branches start to stretch out
Branches start to stretch out when they do not get enough sun. Shredding of foliage and loss of rich coloration can also be observed. Moving the pot to a brighter location or installing additional light above the flower can help remedy the situation. Also in a cool, humid climate.
It can also be caused by too much nitrogen and not enough sulphur in the substrate.
Fungus is the reason for the disease, but more rarely is the problem caused by water stagnation in the ground. The above-ground part becomes sluggish and stops growing. To check the condition of the roots is easy: the plant is carefully removed from the pot, inspecting the roots. If they have changed color to a dark brown or black shade, softened - they are affected by root rot.
Repotting, changing the soil is necessary. In particularly severe cases, give time for the roots to dry out of the root ball during transplanting.
- Substrate must have drainage components;
- ground must have time to dry between waterings;
- Sick shoots must be removed from bush in time.
Most often chlorosis on the leaves or chlorosis is caused by a lack of nutrients. The leaf plate loses pigment and becomes yellow, while the veins retain their green color.
Must increase the amount of iron supplements. However, the problem may be a lack of other elements - magnesium, zinc, nitrogen. Complex mineral fertilizers can be used.
Unfortunately, pests love the succulent leaves of the browallia. If the maintenance standards were violated or the plant was transplanted into contaminated soil, the insects quickly form whole colonies.
The insect is about 2 mm long. It has a tough carapace. The pest digs into the pulp of leaves, adhering tightly to the plate. You can try showering the plant and scrubbing it off with a soft brush, but this will not prevent re-infestation. The most reliable method is an insecticide treatment. Before spraying, the window sill and pot are cleaned with disinfectants.
Then you can spray:
The spider mite
The mite is difficult to detect because of its small size; the body is 1-2 mm in length. The insect reproduces quickly, with the colony hiding on the inside of the leaves. The pest causes thin cobwebs to form on the browallia, the leaves become dry and sluggish, and the plates begin to turn yellow.
The diseased plant is taken to a separate room for quarantine.
Then carry out Treatment:
The pest only appears when air humidity is low. Accordingly, with regular watering, spraying, and average humidity levels, there will be no spider mite.
It looks like a small white butterfly with a body length of 1.3-1.5 mm. When a flower is infested by a pest colony, an entire cloud of fluttering insects forms around the browallia as it approaches. The leaf plate begins to curl inward. The color saturation is lost and the leaves become pale. A sticky scum appears on the surface of the plant. Plant development is stopped.
To get rid of the larvae by folk methods will not work because they are protected by a wax cocoon. The best way to cure a flower is to use insecticides.
To cure a Browallia you should spray with:
If a whitefly has been infested, other flowers can also be infected. It is best to isolate the sick flower to a separate room.
Video on growing browallia from seed
Peculiarities of growing browallia from seed. Work on your mistakes.We suggest you watch an interesting and useful video!